Sin duda alguna uno de los complementos que imprime más elegancia y distinción a la indumentaria masculina, a pesar de su sencillez morfológica, es la corbata. Poco imaginaban las mujeres croatas cuando anudaban una cinta en el cuello de esposos o novios soldados, para que no las olvidaran en el combate, que aquella prenda iba a constituir, con el tiempo, un complemento indispensable en la moda occidental. Tampoco los jinetes de la caballería croata en 1.635, al presentarse en Paris ante Luis XIII y Richelieu, podían sospechar que años mas tarde Luis XIV, el Rey Sol, se iba a enamorar de aquellos vistosos pañuelos que lucían al cuello e incluiría la vistosa prenda en el uniforme de su regimiento real. La llamaron cravette, de Crabete que significa Croacia.
La inicial cravette francesa, se extendió por Europa. En italiano se denominó corvatta o cravatta y de ahí procede la denominación corbata de nuestro idioma.
La historia de la prenda está plagada de anécdotas donde figura como protagonista. Durante la Revolución Francesa sirvió de distinción entre los revolucionarios, que la lucían negra, y los contrarios que la portaban blanca. Napoleón la usaba de color negro con bordes blancos y tuvo la mala ocurrencia el 18 de junio de 1.815 de cambiársela y ser derrotado, aunque por supuesto no fuera esta la causa, en Waterloo.
En 1.827 Honore de Balzac, publica su “L’art de se mettre la cravette” en la que asevera que lo que vale el hombre, vale la corbata y a través de ella se revela y manifiesta. Califica su carácter romántico y recopila veintidós maneras de colocarla.
El genial Oscar Wilde la magnifica diciendo que: “Una corbata bien anudada es el primer paso serio en la vida”. El modisto Lord Brummel, en el siglo XVIII, da clases de anudarse la corbata y supera ampliamente a Balzac, ya que presenta hasta cien nudos diferentes.
El modo de portar la corbata está regido por una serie de normas de elegancia sobre: el material, los colores, los dibujos, hasta donde debe llegar, que parte debe quedar oculta... Parece ser que hay coincidencia en que el rojo es la corbata del poder y el azul el color más seguro.
En el apartado psicológico se ha identificado la corbata como un símbolo fálico. Quizá por eso, como un mensaje subliminal, es costumbre en algunas celebraciones de bodas cortar, por los amigos, en trozos la corbata del novio. Es como decirle: se acabó.
Incidiendo en este aspecto, aunque luego se generalizó el uso y se ha olvidado su origen, se encuentra la razón del corte en pico de la corbata. Inicialmente el final de la misma era horizontal pero, según parece, los estudiantes de algunos elitistas colegios ingleses, quizá como un acto de rebeldía frente al protocolo de obligatoriedad de llevarla y, burlonamente, para asemejarla de forma mas explicita al órgano sexual masculino cortaron en pico el final de la prenda. No obstante esta decisión fue bien aceptada, se generalizó y posteriormente, a principios del siglo pasado, fue aprovechada por Jesse Langsdorf, que calculó que un corte a 45 grados era el óptimo aprovechamiento de tela y así se formalizó el diseño actual mas utilizado.
En la VI Cumbre Iberoamericana, en Chile, José Mª Aznar no logró persuadir a Fidel Castro para que hiciese cambios en su régimen pero, al menos, consiguió un cambio de corbatas. Aunque, según manifestó el entonces Presidente, salió ganando el Comandante.
No me permito, por lo truculento y desagradable, describir el método de la llamada “corbata colombiana” utilizada para ejecutar, por la mafia y delincuencia de Colombia, a los traidores o chivatos.
Últimamente, desde hace unos pocos años, se ha generalizado el uso de “sin corbata”. No llevado al extremo doloroso de un joven mejicano, el año pasado, que escribió en facebook:”Mejor una cuerda que una corbata”, poco antes de suicidarse. Esta moda tiene especial connotación con la clase política, e indudablemente subyace el tufillo demagogo-electoral al que se obligan. Como fue en su tiempo la pana o las cazadoras deportivas. Predomina la convicción que la corbata es un símbolo clasista y para recabar el voto de la masa proletaria, de los “progres” o de la “famélica legión”, conviene prescindir de la prenda. Estéticamente está claro que es menos vistosa la imagen, e incluso a veces resulta forzadamente ridícula. Tal como están las cosas parece algo lejano y anacrónico, pero fue en 2.011, cuando José Bono, Presidente del Congreso de Diputados, llamó la atención e incluso amenazó al ministro de su mismo partido, Miguel Sebastián, por no llevar corbata en una sesión de la Cortes.
Involucra la moda también al emérito. Descorbatado asistió en 2008 al concierto que daba Gustavo Dudamet en el Obradoiro, junto con el Presidente de la Junta de Galicia, también castrado de la emblemática prenda. En el saludo y presentación de los invitados figuraba Juan Carlos Escotet, importante banquero hispano venezolano, presidente de ABANCA. El convencional preboste posiblemente entendió que debía llevar corbata a aquel acto, pero al observar cuando se aproximaba, que el monarca y el presidente no la portaban, procedió a quitársela y guardarla en un bolsillo.
La crisis parece haber afectado, al menos, a la significativa empresa fabricante Tie Rack británica, que ha cerrado bastantes de sus tiendas. Sin embargo otras cadenas manifiestan haber incrementado sus ventas. Sea como sea estoy convencido que, a pesar de la moda “smart casual” y de las estrategias populistas de los políticos, acabará este repudio de la corbata. Es posible que se produzcan cambios en sus formas, sus tonalidades y dibujos pero su carácter de complemento elegante persistirá.
(*) Doctor Ingeniero y Académico
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